Painting boards (with Shaggy's method)

[abalk]

Has anyone run into this?

I sanded, primed and painted with two coats of gloss paint. Then I wanted to add a desgin (started with stripes) to the board so I masked off the stripes and started to paint. Had to put two coats on since first coat did not cover. When I removed the tape some of the paint bled under the tape in the grain of the plywood.

It looks good from a far but up close it looks bad. I'm going to have to touch up, I guess?

Has any run into this or have any ideas on what can be done to stop the 'bleeding'? I thought maybe to score the paint with a sharpe blade on the inside of the tape with a utiliy knife but don't know if that would work?

Thanks for the help!

[andygriff1975]

I've often had to touch up painted lines due to paint running under the tape. Not sure if this is the same issue you are running into. Most painters tape can move, expands in the heat and stretches to some degree. I"d try retapping the lines and touching up the paint job.

I wonder how expensive the painter's tape that custom car painters use?

[osuguy0301]

I have heard of using chap-stik before to keep your paint from running under your tape. Not sure how well it works, never tried it before. I will be painting my boards this weekend and am concerned with the paint getting under my stencil. I expect to have to touch up a little but I hope it doesnt come out bad.

OSU

[Shaggy]

Oooh OOooh - I can help you on this one.


Here is what you do.

Paint the platform the base color that you want. You can do one coat if you want even if you don't have full coverage as long as the area that you are going to tape over has full coverage.

Then tape out the design/pattern that you want.

Next, with the tape still in place, add one more coat of your base color.

Finally, still leaving the tape in place, paint over with your final/next color going over the tape and all.

Now you can remove your tape and have super crisp lines.


What happens is, any bleed through you get will be with the base color and not show. That bleed through also clogs any areas to prevent any future bleed through with the next color.


Hope this helps. It's a little secret I've been using for years for painting guitars and even my cornhole platforms.

If you do get any bleed through it will be very minimal and easily touched up. I usually use a small paint brush. If using a spray paint I just spray the paint on a paper plate and then use the brush to brush it on more acurately. Although, with this method you shouldn't have any bleed through.

[andygriff1975]

do what he said!

[abalk]

Thank you !

I'll try it.

Art

[Shaggy]

Thank you !

I'll try it.

Art

I'm really curious as to how it works for you.... be sure to post your results.

It worked out great for me, although thinking about it, I'm not sure how different paints (Acrylic, Enamal, Laquer, Latex, etc) are effected by the technique.

One thing I should have mentioned .... you may want to consider peeling off the tape after the paint is dry to the touch, but before it's completely cured. It should be at that point that you can dent the paint with a fingernail if you really wanted to. I'm just worried that if using Latex paint, and if the paint is really thick, and if it's fully cured it may peel up too much paint when you remove the tape.

You may also want to consider using a razor blade to score the paint at the tape edges .... if you run into any problems that is.

[abalk]

Just to give you an update.

Your technique worked great! Thanks!

I found out one thing since my masked area was large using masking tape did not work that great. So for the second board I use clear contact paper. This worked great was able to draw design on the paper and then cut out parts that needed to be painted. Then followed your technique.

I will post pictures once the battery in my digital camera charges.

Thanks for the info!

Art

[abalk]

Your technique w/ contact paper for logo and masking tape for stripes.





Your technique w/ masking tape for all graphics.





Thanks Again!
Art

[Shaggy]

Hey no problem - glad I could help.

Those pinstripes look super crisp and clean - awesome job.

[mheidenr]

abalk,
Nice job! I have a question. I have a large area design too. I want to use the contact paper you describe. Is it just regular ole clear contact paper? Did it come off cleanly? How long did you let it sit before you peeled it off?
If it's a special paper,...what's it's name and where did you get it?

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

Mark

[abalk]

Mark,

I just used regular clear contact paper, nothing special. It came off very easly, eaiser than the masking tape. If you use the techinque Shaggy suggested (which I did). I had to leave the contact paper on for one of the base coats, and then for two coats of the final color. After the second coat of the final color I did take off the contact paper and masking tape about 45 minutes after it was applied. I waited until is was somewhat dry but still a bit wet, if that makes any sense.

The only other suggestion I can give it try and have the contact paper cover the entire width of the board b/c with the one coat of base color you do get a very little build up of paint on the edge of the paper (if you paint over any of the outer edeges), but nothing to reduce play. If you look closely you can see some faint lines but when it's on the ground and looking at it you can't even notice.

Hope this helps
Art

[DallasNate]

I can't find clear contact paper anywhere?!?!? where do you get it?

[mheidenr]

Thanks Art. My local hardware store has clear contact paper. Now I think I'll get some.

Thanks again!

Mark

[abalk]

I did not buy it but the Mrs. did, she either got it from Kmart or Michales. She said even Target might have it, or you could try your local hardware store.

Art